In the midst of the Kattegat strait, half way between Denmark and Sweden lies the Danish island of Laeso. It can only be reached by a small plane or ship and thanks to its remoteness it successfully weathers the relentless pace of today's life. Another reason for that may be the philosophy of the two thousand inhabitants who swear by their ecological concept and natural way of life. The local people earn their living by fishing lobsters, local crafts (candle-making, knitwear, ceramics) and tourism. But Laeso has nothing to do with mass tourism - the island welcomes particularly people who love unspoiled nature, peace, quietness and unobtrusive genuine hospitality of the local people. There is plenty of it on the island despite its modest total surface of 114 km2.

Laeso looks out of the sea like a magnificent eye made of sand. This is a very special part of Denmark because of its unusual nature and culture. It is also a very charming island, which is just large enough to make it impossible to cross it on horseback within a single day. By its beauty almost lost in dreams, it completely overwhelms the visitor and suppresses his continuous grabbing for frantic events. Everything is quiet on Laeso - and it is quite amazing how such extreme peace can fulfil one's day without leaving the feeling of missing company or entertainment.


Laeso was made for horses and riding in the open nature - its sandy surface (the island is completely flat and consists of sand), pastures, overgrown with sharp grass mixed with moss, heath and lichen, birch forests, colourful dog-roses and widely open sandy beaches, extremely pure atmosphere and a friendly climate offer everything horses, their caretakers and visitors can wish for. On the whole island, there is a total of 150 Icelandic horses. We crossed the island all the way back and forth thus having the pleasure of enjoying unforgettable moments so precious and rare. How else could we make better contact with nature than in the company of these extraordinary horses in the midst of moss covered pastures and meadows, continuing seamlessly into shallow sea?

For a week we turned to easy living on the Krogbaekgaard estate with Icelandic horses. It is the home of the Jensen family; Poul Erik and his wife Lena are enjoying the idyllic insular life in the country, surrounded by around a hundred Icelandic horses, which by their look and character could hardly match better with the panorama of the Laeso nature.

The Krogbaekgaard estate consists of an old farmhouse, which was renovated in 1930, along with a guesthouse, a large shed with a saddlery and an old barn. Around the estate there are endless pastures where the herd of horses almost mingles with the greenery.


During our week on Laeso, we mostly enjoyed riding in nature in a beautiful countryside so different from our own. Riding along the shore was a particularly memorable experience: the Scandinavian sky with no clouds as far as the eye can see, perfect consistency of the sand few-inches-thick flooded with water, which extends into the sea for more than a kilometre. It gives the impression of riding on a mirror leaving behind the clatter of its tiny broken pieces! Truly something unforgettable! And the horses - how passionately they run across the endless sandbank! It is hard to imagine not to be attracted by this endless road of sand!

And then a turn inland - tölt across pastures, red from the blooming heath and rose-coloured lichen. The horses take a more moderate pace and slowly continue their way home. Soaked clothes, soaked horse fur, trickling very fine sand everywhere - the little memories of a magnificent experience!

The silent rolling of the sea, leaving ribbed patterns in the sand, the fluttering of birds in a specially dedicated reserve, blossoming heath, charming traditional houses, covered by sea grass, the wind which by a single puff crosses the island, the snorting of horses and the scent of carpet-like pastures - everything seems to be a mysterious fairy-tale country and I would not consider it something unusual if a dwarf would look from behind a birch tree! Such an unusual country leaves an unforgettably deep impression and extends a hypnotic invitation to come again. We definitely will some time, Laeso.


Written by: Agata Maček